What the Beginning and Advancing Aquarist Absolutely Needs to Know and Do When Starting An Aquarium

What to Choose in Essential Aquarium Equipment

Size of Aquarium:  As a general rule, the larger the aquarium, the easier it is to have a successful aquarium.  The smaller the aquarium, the more attention is needed to be sure the water conditions are satisfactory and that it is not overcrowded.  If starting with a small aquarium, seriously consider only having a few small fishes that can stand the confines of less room, such as by choosing the kinds that are naturally slower moving, and especially for marines -- not being aggressive (or at least less aggressive).  

Another consideration is whether to have a plastic (acrylic) or glass-walled aquarium.  There is a big difference between the two that most do not realize is there.  The plastic in aquariums does not have an electron charge, so organisms, such as bacteria and algae cannot readily cling to them.  This greatly decreases living space for the beneficial micro-organisms needed in aquarium keeping, such as for "Biological Filtration" and natural food supply for fishes and aquatic invertebrates.  All of the glass aquariums have the  electron charge needed by micro-organisms for their attaching to the glass.  Another factor about plastic aquariums is that they are prone to get scratches in their surfaces.  They are less easy to clean than glass, and over time the plastic surfaces may become unsightly.  The main advantages for plastic aquariums are that they are less fragile than glass aquariums, and they can be in many attractive curved shapes.

As you no doubt realize, water is heavy (8.34 pounds per gallon).  It needs a sturdy aquarium and a sturdy base to put it on.  Be sure both are up to handling the total weight of the aquarium, its water, and its equipment.  A complete 10 gallon aquarium can easily weigh over 120 pounds.  Mishandled, particularly for a glass aquarium, it can readily break, dumping out its water, and all.

Water Filtration And Aeration:  Keep in mind that the whole aquarium is acting as a filter, particularly when it comes to the actions of beneficial nitrifying bacteria which will congregate on surfaces throughout the aquarium.  The greater the water movement through the aquarium and water filtration, the more the bacteria are active.

When buying the equipment for the aquarium, you need to provide sufficient aeration of the water, because this can be a major problem to fish in their need for oxygen in the water to breathe.  If you use a waterfall filter for an aquarium, realize that this only aerates the top surface layer of the water in the aquarium.  Additional aeration is needed, such as by an air pump and air stone(s), or by a water pump.   For professional grade aeration from air stones, use Kordon's Mist Air ceramic air stones, which are precision made, effective and long lasting.

Oxygen in the water is misunderstood by many aquarists.  While water is made up of oxygen and hydrogen, none of it is available to the organisms in the water.  All of the oxygen for breathing is oxygen gas that comes from the atmosphere absorbed into the water.  Fishes and aquatic organisms only have at best about 14 ppm (= 14 mg/L) in fresh water and 11 ppm in salt water of oxygen in the water, which is an incredibly tiny amount.  And this is at a cold water temperature of 32 degrees Fahrenheit (= 0 degrees Centigrade).  Oxygen is even less at higher temperatures.  For examples:

15 degrees Centigrade (= 60o F) there is about a maximum of 10 ppm in freshwater and 8 ppm in saltwater
20 degrees Centigrade (= 72o F) there is about a maximum of 9 ppm in freshwater and 7 ppm in saltwater
25 degrees Centigrade (= 78o F) there is about a maximum of 8.2 ppm in freshwater and 6.5 ppm in saltwater

There just isn't much oxygen in the water, even in the best of conditions.  Don't skimp in getting good air and water circulation in the aquarium.  Just imagine that while we have over 21% of the air content we breathe as oxygen, which equals over 210,000 parts per million -- a very ample supply -- those hapless fishes and other water-breathing animals in the water only have at most a minute 14 parts per million oxygen in very cold water.  That is about one fifteen thousandth of the oxygen we have in the air.  Fishes and other aquatic life have to be extraordinarily resourceful to get enough essential oxygen to breathe from so little available to them.  All the help you can provide in having good aeration of the water will be much appreciated by the fishes.  They need 4-6 ppm (= 4-6 mg/L) oxygen in the water for good health and growth. Dissolved oxygen levels below 3 ppm (= 3mg/L) are stressful to most aquatic organisms.  Below 2 parts per million oxygen in the water is lethal to most fishes. 

So what is essential in aquarium keeping is sufficient water movement to allow the efficient release into the water and then into the air the carbon dioxide exhaled by the breathing of the fishes and other organisms, thereby allowing oxygen to come into the water from the air.  Without the carbon dioxide getting out and making room for the oxygen, the oxygen cannot get in.  The simplest easily-supplied aeration in an aquarium is going to be from the use of an air pump and air stone that brings in air (containing oxygen) at the bottom of the aquarium, forcing water movement and oxygen throughout the aquarium water.  Or it will be by use of a water pump that increases water circulation.  when using an air stone, have its bubbling action start close to the bottom, so that it moves the water, bottom to top in the aquarium. 

There are three types of filtration, mechanical, biological, and organic/ chemical.  By mechanical filtration is meant the removal by filter and other materials of particles that are drifting in the water.  This will be done by water flow through the filter materials, and from what accumulate on surfaces in the aquarium.  

Biological filtration is done by beneficial gram positive bacteria that cling to the surfaces in the filter and elsewhere.  Filters and filtration are misunderstood by most aquarists.  In truth, the entire aquarium is involved in filtration.  Every charged surface in the aquarium (glass, gravel, rocks, decorations) is going to have millions and billions of bacteria that consume organics from the water -- all an essential part of water filtration. 

By biological filtration is meant having the actions of the beneficial bacteria that remove the ammonia and nitrites of the "Nitrogen Cycle" in the water, as well as by the sludge bacteria in the bottom of the aquarium. Sludge is the semisolid residue and sediment that is also called bottom biosolids.  The sludge-reducing bacteria need surfaces to which to attach, which will mainly be the substrate, walls of the aquarium, filter materials through which water flows, and surfaces of plants and decorations in the water. 

By organic/chemical filtration is meant  the use of activated carbon that removes organics from the water  -- such as those organics that cause discoloration of the water and odors.  Depending upon its structure and activation, activated carbon lowers to some extent concentrations of heavy metals (lead, zinc, copper, strontium) in the water.  There is considerable variation in the qualities of activated carbon products as to what they will accomplish in aquarium filtration.  Probably its most important function is attracting nitrifying bacteria to its surfaces to serve in biological filtration.  Activated carbon is a good base for biological filtration, because the bacteria attracted to its surfaces feed on the attached organic molecules that are filtered out of the water. 

But activated carbon has negative factors as well as positive, because -- depending upon the quality of the carbon -- it takes out trace elements from the water (as well as any organic herbal or copper chemical treatments being used in the water) that are needed by the fishes and other aquatic organisms for their health and well being.  Since the removal of trace elements from the water is taking out essential elements needed by the organisms, including fishes and invertebrates in the water, it means that it will take out many of the components provided in sea-salt mixes.  While there are differences of opinion on this point, If activated carbon is used, its use should be intermittent, such as for a few hours each week.  As for taking organics out of the water, such as for discoloration and odors, this can be done for those organics that contain nitrogen by the regular use of Kordon's AmQuel+ .  

Also, it needs to be understood that activated carbon usually has a relatively short life of activity in water filters.  By taking out of the water trace elements, organics, and heavy metals, its activity may be quickly exhausted within days or weeks.  After that its main function will be to provide mechanical filtration and surfaces on which nitrifying bacteria can reside.  In much of aquarium keeping, with activated carbon left indefinitely in the filter without being replaced, its action is mainly in aiding mechanical and biological filtration. 

The filters used in crowded aquariums that receive the most complaints are the waterfall filters.  Their water spills on the surface of the water and does not sufficiently circulate through the aquarium.  If you use a waterfall filter, be sure to have additional aeration by air stones or water pump, or both.

Water Heating And Temperature Regulation:  For warm or tropical animals in the water, you will need a heater/thermostat to control the water temperature.   For general use it is best to keep the temperature at the lower end of the optimum range of water life, because the lower the temperature, the more oxygen the fish and other aquatic animals have for breathing.  For most freshwater tropical fishes, between 72-75 degrees Fahrenheit (22-24 degrees Centigrade) would be the optimum range of water temperature in aquariums so that they have ample oxygen.  Aquarium keeping is not reproducing what environmental conditions are in nature.  It is far different than what it is in nature.  Instead it is a compromise as to what is best in a really small confined water space.  Avoid higher temperatures for regular aquarium keeping, because the higher the temperature, the less oxygen that there can be in the water. 

There is a consideration by some that marine tropical fish and coral reef invertebrates need a higher temperature, such as 75-80 degrees Fahrenheit (= 24-27 degrees Centigrade).  However, there are tropical and subtropical coral reefs around the world from which fish and aquatic animals are taken for aquarium keeping that are most of the time not that high in temperature.  Also, in general, more so than in freshwater conditions, marine tropical aquariums have less oxygen in the water than there is in nature.  The reason is that there is not as vigorous water movement and aeration of the water in aquariums as there is in the natural environment. 

The concern should be to keep the temperature as low as practical in the tropical range so that there is ample oxygen in the water.  The principal need for keeping the fishes' stress under control is to keep the temperature constant, once the optimum aquarium temperature has been established.  This is more true for marine fishes than freshwater.  To monitor the temperature in the water have an accurate thermometer that is readily visible.   Cold-water fishes do not need heating, unless exposed to very cold or freezing conditions.

There are two kinds of heater/thermostats to choose from:  One that hangs at the back in the aquarium, and the other that is totally submerged at the bottom.  Since heat rises, the kind on the bottom has its advantages, including usually being better built.  

The size of the aquarium electrical heater/thermostat that is needed is usually calculated as requiring one that will handle 5 watts per gallon (that is, a 20 gallon aquarium would need a water heater that handles 100 watts), but it depends on the coldest conditions that the aquarium is going to have.  Requirements may be more or less than this calculation, such as only requiring 2.5 watts per gallon in outside temperate or warm air conditions. 

Nevertheless, it is best to keep on the safe side by having ample heater wattage.  The thermostat should be sufficient to control the selected temperature.  For tropical fishes, the heater/thermostat failing in cold weather can be a disaster for them.  Consider for safety to have two heater/thermostats in the aquarium, both in operation, preferably at opposite ends of the aquarium.  If one goes out, the other will continue operating.

Conversely, there are those aquarists who need a an electric chiller to cool their aquarium.  This is more prevalent for marine aquariums in the tropics or warmer termperate regions where the air temperature can get in the 80s F (>27 degrees Centigrade) and above.  This is a serious consideration because of the lower oxygen levels in the water at higher water temperatures.




Bottom Cover:  Fishes and aquatic invertebrates are more comfortable when there is a natural substrate, such as by gravel or coarse sand.  Many fish need a substrate in which to dig. If you use fine sand or a thick layer of substrate over 1" deep, be prepared to stir it regularly so that it does not solidify and become anaerobic and toxic. One effective way of doing this is with a bottom siphon.  It is best to use products obtained from stores handling aquarium/pet or pond products, because these bottom covers will be compatible to aquarium and pond keeping, and will not be toxic.  Do not use sharp-edged gravel or stones that can injure fishes when they brush up against them, or dive into the bottom. 

It is usually recommended for marine aquariums that the bottom cover is either natural coral or dolomite in order to provide calcium carbonate to buffer the alkalinity and pH of the water.  Kordon's Wonder Rock includes a line of color-coated dolomite that is 99% calcium (56%) and magnesium (43%) both essential major elements for buffering the acidity/alkalinity of the water.  The Coral Beach sand and gravel is natural worn coral from the western tropical Pacific that is CITES approved (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora).  The Kordon Coral Beach sand and gravel contain dried tropical marine sludge-removing bacteria and enzymes to accelerate toxic nitrogen removal in salt water. 

A useful accessory to have for both aquariums and ponds is a bottom water siphon that is used to stir up the substrate and suck out accumulating debris.  Its regular use is important in maintenance of better water conditions.

Aquarium Lighting:  Aquarists usually take care of this automatically since they want to view the aquarium, and most aquariums come with sufficient top lighting in their hoods.  Lighting plays an important role in photosynthesis by providing light for the aquatic plants and micro-algae.  The deeper the water in the aquarium, the greater the amount of light is needed.  It is generally recommended that lighting be on about 10-16 hours per day, but this depends greatly upon the amount of sunlight or other lighting regularly available in the room.

Plants And Decorations:  When considering plants, such as for freshwater conditions, there are advantages to both plastic and natural, and they may be used commingled together  Plastic plants take little care, are stable in form, and provide protection for the fishes.  Real plants require maintenance and ample light, but are important in providing a natural substrate for beneficial bacteria (this is not provided by plastic plants or other plastic objects in the aquarium), and are an important food source for many fishes that require plant food in their diet.  Rocks and other decorations can provide important protection to the fishes and invertebrates.  Mainly be sure that they are nontoxic and do not contain toxic metals. Avoid quartz and other mineralized rock which can contain heavy metals.   Coral rock is safe to use in both fresh and saltwater aquariums, and has the advantage of being natural looking.  A prominent decoration can be from the aeration source, which can be arranged so that it is decorative as well as functional.

Decorations come in many forms.  See Kordon Eco-Logs for natural-looking plastic bottom "hideaways" for fishes and invertebrates.  Also see Kordon Artificial Corals that look like the real thing, but are environmentally friendly. 

Fish Food Feeder:  While most aquarists simply introduce the food on the surface of the water to which the fish respond, there are reasons to consider alternatives.  An automatic feeder can be helpful when the aquarist is not able to take care of the fishes for some days.  However, since overfeeding is one of the main errors that aquarists make,  it should be set so that the amount of food released is the minimum needed, allowing the aquarist to augment feeding by hand when necessary.  Since fish often do not eat when ill, in general maintenance automatic feeders should not be used.  Excess build up of food in the aquarium can cause serious pollution.

 

Dip Nets and Fish Catchers:  While the standard way to catch aquarium fishes is with a  dip net with cloth netting, there is an alternative that is easier on them  -- this is with a Kordon Fish Catcher.   It is worth a look to see the difference.  With a Fish Catcher with no netting the fish's scales and fins do not get caught and broken, and the fish are lifted out of the water with less stress in their own little pool of water.   And once you get the hang of using it, it can be easier to use, because the fish do not as readily see it coming.  Whatever you use to catch the fishes, the use of an all-plastic fly swatter in the aquarist's other hand greatly helps to herd the fish into the net or catcher.  

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